First Organic Hair Color

It is Memorial Day weekend and this is this guest’s first organic hair color experience.  My guest has had health issues in the past and believes it is because of chemical exposure.  She once had a successful residential cleaning business.  After many years of  cleaning, she developed severe allergies and some autoimmune diseases.  Her doctors put her on an array of pain medications along with Synthroid for underactive thyroid.  She decided to close her business and focus on her health and soon after she came off of all the medications but the Synthroid.  It has been over 6 months since her hair has been hair colored so she decided this would be her first organic hair color.

Her natural level is 6 with 25% gray. Before I formulate  I do a Wet Strand Test (WST) which shows her hair has stretch with no return.  At this point I began her first organic hair color experience with a clarifying shampoo followed by a Power Build Revamp combined with Power Build Treatment.  The formula I mixed was 2.5 oz 6% developer with 1.5oz 6rc + 1oz 6cr.  Once I rinsed the treatment and toweled dried her hair I applied the color. Starting with the first 4 inches of her regrowth then applied to the length of her hair.   She processed under a warm hood dryer for 20 minutes then cooled for 20 minutes.  After processing I emulsified and shampooed with tepid water then conditioned with Power Build.  I applied some Argan Oil, did a haircut, blow dried and styled using Root Lift by Aquage. 

The results of her first organic hair color were amazing and she had no sensitivity of discomfort through the entire appointment.  She was also happy that there was no need to cut more than 2 inches. The Power Build Treatment and organic color left her hair in much better condition.  She took home that same shampoo, conditioner and treatment so that she can continue to have the shiny and healthy hair.



New Flavor Organic Color Customer

I decided that it was time to switch an existing client to a new flavor organic color customer. What a great choice!  She has been getting 6cr + 6% and I just was not pleased with it. Opting to go with a deeper and not so coppery red for balance with skin tones.  Since I was doing a new flavor organic color customer I decided to really prep the hair. First application was a clarifying shampoo and then a Power Build shampoo and treatment. All of this was done at the shampoo bowl, while I formulated and mixed the new colors. 

For the regrowth I mixed 5rc + 6%, and 6rc + 6% for the midshaft and ends to get the new flavor organic customer to the perfect balance.  Once the Power Build treatment was rinsed I applied the first formula to the three inches of regrowth.  The second formula was then applied to the midshaft and ends.  Put a plastic cap over the colors and processed for 20 minutes under a warm dryer.  Remove the plastic cap and let it cool at room temperature for 20 minutes.  After a long rinse with tepid water while emulsifying to lift the color form the scalp. Another Power Build treatment was applied at the shampoo bowl.  The hair was then towel dried, detangled and trimmed.

At this point a keratin smoothing treatment was done.  After the treatment  I went back and chipped into the layers to soften the look of the haircut.  When you look at the pictures below, the first is from February of this year and the second shot was taken yesterday. The first is too warm while the second shot I am very pleased with. Even though it is a deeper shade of red, which is what I would typically do in the Fall…this looks better.



LaBrasiliana Keratin Treatment

For 9 years I have been using LaBrasiliana Keratin Treatment for smoothing and straightening hair, on men and women.  LaBrasiliana has several different formulas most with a small amount of formaldehyde except the one that I am using, the Original, which has NO FORMALDEHYDE however, when it comes in contact with the recommended 450* heat it does form a slight aldehyde.  Since I only do a dozen or so a year, I have not been concerned with the minimal amount of aldehyde fumes (I also have a tower fan with an ionizer running).  The client must wait four days before shampooing, just after the LaBrasiliana Keratin Treatment, so that the hair can harden and cure.  During these four days one must flat iron each day so that any kinks from sleeping and/or any problem areas are straightened during the hardening period.  Once you can shampoo, ALL products used on the hair must be sodium chloride free (easiest way to tell is to contact the product maker and specifically ask if they are sodium chloride free) and every product I carry is sodium chloride free(sulfate, gluten & paraben free also).  I am going to be making a change to two organic products for this service and no longer use LaBrasiliana Keratin Treatment.  One will be to relax and de-frizz curls and another organic product will be used to straighten hair.  Both products are made by Organic Colour Systems which is the hair color I use in the salon. While I still have LaBrasiliana Keratin Treatment in stock, I will continue to offer to the ones that prefer that product.  I am going to be the test model for the organic straightener which will be Think Curl, a perm that is free from ammonia and thioglicolates, made by Organic Colour Systems. I will have an update later this week!


The pictures are  1) before shampooing for LaBrasiliana Keratin Treatment.  2) after clarifying shampoo for the treatment.  3) after I did the treatment.  4) 4 days later, once she shampooed and blow dried her hair.



Repair, Restore & Fix

Time to start thinking Repair, Restore & Fix with being out in the sun and hot weather.  We tend to forget about replenishing our what our hair needs when we start having fun at the pool, beach, lake and outdoors in general.  We spend a lot of time outdoors this time of year and usually are not thinking of repair, restore & fix however…this is the most important time to give a little extra TLC to our hair, since it is not a pair of jeans we can take off and wear another day!  Organic Colour Systems has an easy and user friendly repair, restore & fix system that is very effective for a reasonable price.  Just switching your shampoo and conditioner makes a huge difference since that is something that we all use at least three times a week.  Now just add their treatment to that and the whole repair, restore & fix is easily boosted!  To find out what system will work best on your hair, come see me for a “Wet Strand Test”, only takes 5 minutes and water.  These products quickly repair, restore & fix your hair and you actually use less than you would with most professional products and definitely less than all store bought products. 



Fringe Enhancement

Doing a fringe enhancement is an easy way to spice up your hair color without doing very much.  For this guest, whose natural color is a 5, I used organic color 8ah and 12% developer.  I only foiled the fringe area with back to back foils.  She processed with low heat for 20 minutes then cooled for 5 minutes.  This enhancement did not require any type of treatment so I simply shampooed with Organic Colour System’s “Aqua Boost” shampoo and cleft the conditioner on for 3 minutes, to bring the PH level back to around a level 4.  We did not tone so we proceeded with  a 1″ trim, blow dried her and called it a day.



Organic Highlights for Mother’s Day

Organic Highlights for Mother’s Day!  So this mom to be is 6 months along (having a little girl, has a 6 yr old little boy) and has not had any color since October 2016.  She showed me some very blonde pictures of herself but asked for more natural looking highlights (light but not so bright) so that she would not have to be in the salon every 6 weeks.  She has naturally curly hair, 5 inches of new growth from previous highlights and is a natural level 6-6.5 with no grey.  I did a full head of foil highlights using Organic Colour System’s “Naturlite” white and 6% developer.  While foiling I decided to do less foils in the back underneath and gradually adding more foils as I came up to the crown and frontal area.  I processed her highlights under a dryer using low heat and kept the dryer hood up high, away from the top of her head, checking every 3 minutes (looking for a lemon color).  I shampooed her with Organic “Power Build”, then toned the highlights with 11HN + 3% for 10 minutes at the shampoo bowl.  Once that was rinsed and shampooed I applied “Revamp” with “Power Build Treatment” over the top, capped for 15 minutes, rinsed and applied “Power Build Conditioner” for 3 minutes, rinsed and sprayed Organic”Thermal to Twenty” before detangling and then did the haircut.  She is wanting to grow her hair out so I dusted the ends, cut the fringe, blow dried her then sliced through the fringe to remove weight and soften the area at the face. This mom to be has fresh highlights for Mother’s Day!   I would like to personally wish all the mom’s and mom’s to be a wonderful Mother’s Day and come see me for your Organic highlights!



Seeing Red!

It is always a good thing seeing red heads come back to freshen up!  This guest is about 75% grey in the front and 50% grey in the back so there will not be any need for two different formulas because hair is naturally darker in the back and underneath.  Using traditional hair color, I mixed 20 volume developer with 8GR, 7CR and 8GB (greatest amount being the first color).  I applied to the regrowth first, since we are seeing red, then processed with moist heat (used a steam processor) for 24 minutes and brought it through the ends for another 12 minutes.  With tepid water, I rinsed thoroughly (until not seeing red in the water)!  Then I shampooed with Aquage’s  Biomega “Silk” shampoo followed with a protein treatment by Aquage for 5 minutes and finally applied “Intense” conditioner.  While the conditioner was on, I waxed her eyebrows, this way the PH of the hair is closer to normal and the cuticle is closed.  I then towel dried and applied Aquage’s “Behave”, smoothing elixir, cut and blow dry styled her.  Love seeing red brighten up like that.



Color Challenge

So I decided I needed a color challenge today and WHAT A COLOR CHALLENGE I HAD!!!  It was so good to see this guest since I have not seen her in about 6 months.  We decided to do a full head of foil  highlights, using organic powder lightener and for the cut, pick up the layers quite a bit  (she loves to be blonde and is not very dark naturally, a level 6-7).  This was going to be and easy fun appointment where we could catch up on her son’s buying his first house and her mom’s health is doing better….well not so fast.  I decided, after foiling this beautiful thick head of hair that I would use a new product that is getting wonderful reviews!!!  Organic Colour Systems “No Limits” violet,  instead of a violet shampoo or a light toner (because I could not wait until after my in salon education on Friday and want a color challenge).   When I applied the “No Limits” I knew immediately this was not the time, nor the head of hair, to try this new product and boy had I began a color challenge I have not experienced in my almost 24 years at doing hair.  The first photo is after I have highlighted, shampooed and applied the violet “No Limits” AND am in the middle of the first “shampoo cap”.  This “No Limits” product is amazing!  There is VERY LITTLE color coming off.  The second photo is after two shampoo caps and her haircut.  This is when I decided I am not up for any more of a color challenge  and that I was going to foil high and low lights to eliminate the pink. And off I went with OCS 6TO+5AH and 6% liquid developer.  She processed at room temperature and I shampooed then did a protein treatment.  The last photo is of the finished product on a super good sport and ended my color challenge!




Curly Hair Style

A naturally curly hair style can pose problems in way of frizz and uneven curl.  There a few simple things someone with a curly hair style can do to avoid hard to tame hair while managing the frizz and that is mostly the at home hair care along with the amount of time spent touching the hair(the more you touch while styling, the more frizz).  We wanted to keep the length and pick up the weight so that she can wear this utilizing her natural curl.  I shampooed her with Aquage’s Biomega “Silk” shampoo and conditioned with “Intense’ conditioner, also by Biomega, leaving the conditioner in for about 3 minutes.  I trimmed her ends and put long layers in along with a slight angle at the face.  I then applied Biomega’s “Behave” smoothing elixir, combed it through, scrunched up her hair to set it up for less frizz in the curly hair style, and let the hair sit under a low heat dryer while I cut her mother’s hair.  At this point I used my blow dryer, at the low speed setting, to easily dry at the scalp making sure to not rough up the hair.  I finished the style using “Detailing Cream” and VOILA! A beautiful curly hair style.





Spring 2017 Haircut

I had a young college student come in today and ask for a new haircut for Spring 2017.  She works outside at a nursery and does not have the time, nor the need, to shampoo, blow dry and style  every day.  We decided to do a haircut that is about shoulder length and very few layers to remove some weight but not to create too much work for her to style.   She was very excited about the haircut and will be able to manage it on a daily basis!